Living in Islamabad, Pakistan Again: Month 1

09.07.2026

Absolutely NOTHING has gone to plan since relocating from an amazingly chilled island in Indonesia back to Islamabad in mid-June. I mean nothing! But it’s both fun and kinda funny. So here’s a very unexciting roundup of month one.

FORBIDDEN TO ENTER KP

The whole reason I flew to Pakistan was to spend 4-6 weeks in Chitral, sightseeing and shooting this series of videos:

Insider’s Guide: UNESCO Kalash Valley (visit with a Chitrali Royal Family member)
Jeep safari in the Hindu Kush Mountains
Chitral Guide: What to see & do
Gol National Park: Top 3 lookouts & trekking paths
Mastuj Guide: What to see & do
Hidden Gem Villages in the Hindu Kush Mountains
Horse Riding Guide to the Hindu Kush Mountains

Because of the category of visa I have, KP Home Department is refusing me entry “for my protection” unless I agree to travel in a bullet-proof vehicle at all times, which would cost tens of thousands of dollars. I wish I could see how it was “for my protection” but it is not about me – Angela – nor what I do for a living or anything personal to me.

In fact, if I quickly fly the 3.5 hours to Dubai and re-entered Pakistan the same day on a tourist visa (relinquishing my current multi-entry business visa for my Pakistan marketing company), then I could enter and go on that trip above without ANY issue. I wouldn’t need to gain prior approval of my travel plan as I am now NOR travel in a bullet-proof vehicle. .

I can’t wrap my head around how me – Angela – in the morning is not allowed “for my protection” but (if I re-entered on a tourist visa) upon my return in the afternoon that me – the same Angela – is cleared for travel.

I tried asking for the situation to be escalated at the Home Dept. to someone who could review my particular case but that wasn’t possible for some reason. If anyone is reading this and knows someone who might speak to me, I’d be grateful.

SIGHTSEEING PLAN B

After my KP plan died, I researched a fun Plan B to create hidden gem day trip guides from Islamabad, places reachable by train (collaborating with Pakistan Railways). Trains are the BEST, I am so excited! However, it’s on hold until it cools down cuz 40 degrees is just too hot to shoot video and fly the drone at heritage sites mid-day. Fingers crossed, hopefully soon!

PAKISTANI WOMEN

It seems that either some women OR women in some areas / places are more free to show their arms now like men. I have seen arms in public twice now, women wearing sleeveless shirts. Not short sleeves. NO sleeves! I’ve also seen more ankles and shins from women in capri pants or dresses. I know it’s a small thing but it’s encouraging to see a bit of skin equality between men and women.

FRIENDS

This is the best part so far. I’ve been able to see my only female friend in Islamabad, a Turk, a couple of times for catch ups. I also saw a dear friend I know from before I arrived the first time to Pakistan in 2020. I have been very fortunate to explore Balochistan with him a few times. His YouTube channel Balochistan: Land of Beauty is the reason I first came to Pakistan and why I chose Balochistan over the North.

Still waiting to see a couple of friends who are away on summer holiday (H & Z, you know who you are!).

BAKERIES & COFFEE

Back when I left in early 2025, there were a few New York style cookie shops in each major city. A few cafes that had yummy international desserts and baked goods. But today … it’s like that genre has EXPLODED and there are DOZENS of crazy-good options!

I realise this is a silly complaint but today it is quite impossible to spend quiet moments at cafes to work now, which I do miss. They are social hubs and packed so much of the time now (great for business, bad for being quiet on laptops!)

Same goes for high-quality bean roasting and coffee shops. Where I am staying they do not have a proper coffee maker so every day I order in my morning iced americano. There are INSANE cups of coffee in Islamabad now! Last time there were a few spots that a top quality beans & baristas behind the counter but now I could order from somewhere new every day for a couple of weeks without repeating the venue.

SPICY FOOD

After living 14 months in Indonesia, so far nothing I’ve eaten has seemed very spicy to me, and I have eaten mostly local food. Not 100% sure but I remember food often seeming pretty spicy last time, especially in Karachi. But compared to Indonesia, which is full of dishes that would burn my lips and mouth most days, Islamabad is mellow.